After driving to Vegas, pushing up our plans, and cramming a full adventure into the day before, we were moving pretty slow. Luckily we bought a timed entry reservation before we left home, just in case. Today we were going to need it. We were still in a hurry to beat the rain, but we were also too tired to get up early and do anything that quickly.
We took a chance on the Calico 2 pullout and lucked out with one of the last parking spots. Soon we were on our way up the trail, into a wash, and then to a shady slab to have our breakfast. After a break we resumed scrambling and balancing our way up around slickrock pools. A sandy wash led to a steep gully, and then we cut through bushes and took ramps up and to the right. Eventually a long staircase of boulders took us to the base. We were hot, tired, and sweaty. But at least we were only climbing two pitches.
We racked up, had a snack, and got at it. The first pitch was fairly easy at first, with an occasional lieback with slippery feet once in the corner. Eventually the corner liebacks became more awkward before transitioning into a chimney. Before long I was almost at the bolts, and had to do a dicey traverse at the last minute to arrive at the anchor. Possibly a variation, but it just felt natural to stay in the crack in the corner instead of venturing onto the face.
The climb really was a joy to me. The deep red rock was just so intensely… red? A lot of my formative years were spent climbing in southern Utah, and the smooth, grainy, fine, soft, red rock felt so familiar and welcoming. It’d been decades since I’d climbed that type of rock, and I felt a sense of homecoming.
Emma did a great job on the follow. With only minimal complaints about the nasty swing that I set up for her on the traverse. Still, we both agreed that staying the crack just made more sense. We were here to climb this magnificent corner, and staying in it as long as possible just felt appropriate. The clouds were starting to move in, and we were treated to dramatic views of the surrounding features.
The second pitch was much more satisfying. Classic Red Rock face climbing on patina took me past two bolts and back into the corner. A tricky lieback start got me into a wide crack section. As I pulled the crux I noticed rain drops hitting the rock. Just a few, but it was clear we were running out of time. From here it was cruiser up into the cleft near the top out. Face climbing just inside a chimney led to the top. Runout I guess, but super easy. Emma followed quickly. Later on she would shocked to hear that it was considered the 5.8 pitch. Sometimes I think that maybe Red Rock grades aren’t so much soft, as that the cruxes are over before you have a chance to really notice them.
After debating how to interpret the descent instructions we opted to head climbers left (towards the north), down climb a cleft with some knobs, and double back to access the gully. The whole descent was delightful and scenic, and we were back at our packs in no time. And just in time. As we packed up the wind whipped up something crazy. Soon rain was falling, and then was pounding. The thunderstorms had arrived.
We worked our way down the boulders, lingering to watch the remaining parties on the wall rappel off. A slight junk show kept our attention, as we waited to make sure they made it down. Maybe they won’t huck their rappel ropes into the wind next time? Who knows. People do crazy stuff. Like go rock climbing.
Instead of skirting the Sweet Pain wall on our descent we opted to divert through the Black Corridor, and scope it out. Numerous parties were finishing up their day, or desperately getting the last few moves in on overhanging routes. Climb-time was over. Another rest and we finished the descent, arriving at the car pretty much wiped out.
We checked out the Sandstone Quarry, and then had lunch at the Willow Springs picnic area. On our way out we spotted Waterboys from the road, then stopped at Pine Creek trailhead for cocktails just down the trail. We reveled in the views of the canyon, the dramatic clouds, and chatted with folks hiking out from Dark Shadows. Despite the weather trying to ruin it for us, we’d just barely achieved our objectives and bagged two awesome climbs at Red Rock.
Great Red Book
5.8 – 250′ – Two pitches
with Emma
Gear is pretty forgettable. Probably take doubles to 3. Stoppers (don’t think I placed any).
Definitely cruiser, none too spicy.
We stayed in the crack till the last minute, but the face might be fun.
Walk off to left (north) goes nicely. Maybe south is an alternate? Might be pools are over there.
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