This is Pearl. She’s why were here at Joshua Tree. Did we have a campsite for a fully booked popular spring weekend? No. But we brought Pearl, and her fan club delivered. Wherever she goes, she makes friends. And sometimes her friends hook you up with campsites for last-minute bonus trips. And now we were enjoying some whiskey and an evening at Joshua Tree.
Our first evening was nice. But the winds didn’t die down as forecasted. All night they slammed into the tent and kept us awake for the entire night. We got up and moving, only to worry that our climbing day was ruined. If this plot twist has you depressed, here’s Pearl looking at the moon and trying to eat our camping light in the tent to cheer you up. Derp!
A sleepless night left us totally running out of gas halfway to the White Cliffs of Dover. We’d been trying to get up there for months, but it was always too cold and shady. Now we were within reach and just over it. Luckily our consolation prize was Baskerville Rock, right next to where we took an impromptu lie-down. We headed over and jumped on the appealing and intriguing Right Baskerville Crack.
This was (edit: still is) the hardest 10a I’ve done at Joshua Tree. This thing looks so cool and inviting from the ground, but the crux move up the bulge is just so flipping hard! I mean, we were feeling like zombies, but this took me five to six tries to get the crux. Later on top rope it took me four tries, and I barely pulled it. Desperate slippery feet and minimal sharp crimps over a bulge feel super hard and bouldery. I finally realized I had to jam/smear my foot in a corner/notch, but even after unlocking that the terrible hands make this an incredible struggle. And then it’s a delicate balancey high step that must be done perfectly. Finally the crack becomes useful and you can throw in some fingers and just catch your breath.
After the crux it’s hard and technical, but feels completely different. A tricky mantel, finger locks, and delicate feet make this route really fun and challenging. But doable. After the crux it’s just regular hard, not crazy impossible.
Setting up a top rope and just working on this route was a great outcome for us. As much as we wanted to get up to Dover, we were just too tired and braindead. This was a perfect amount of constrained challenge for us in that state.
But then it was back to the car, and back to reality. Where we had to consider the possibility that we might just go home instead of brave another night. We decided to risk it, but we played crazy gear tetris and build two beds in the car. One for us, and one for Pearl. We were worried she’d reject the front seat, but I think she preferred it. It was more like a couch and it had a window she could look out of. This dog really likes furniture and looking out windows, so I don’t know why we thought it wouldn’t work. She liked it so much she even slept in the next morning.
We were still tired and frazzled, but ready to get another climb in before leaving. Western Saga had been on our list for a while, but shady. A short approach made it the choice for the day. We were a bit intimidated by rumors of 10a moves, but it turned out to be on the mellow side.
This was a really fun climb, and possibly one of our favorites. Fun corner stemming up cool features to a big ledge. We opted to belay here, since it would offer more shade for Emma. Could have easily pushed on either to the next ledge, or possibly the top out, but this ledge was perfect for the time of day.
From the ledge it’s awkward wideness for just a second up into the dramatic roof. It’s tenuous, a bit awkward, but goes fairly smoothly and easily. We both reckoned that the crux was after the roof pull, when feet disappear for a move or two. Then solid hands to another ledge. An easy lieback, which I believe is Fote Hog, leads to a gully to a convenient overhead crack system for an anchor.
And that’s when shit went sideways. Were we the party that was yelling back and forth and asking bystanders to relay messages? Yes. That was us. So what. Sleep deprived, remember? And honestly, while we felt like total failures, we were still less of a shit show than the party on Fote Hog next door.
There’s really no point to rehash the scenario in an attempt to glean insight from the experience. Suffice to say, we now have a new, more rigorous radio check procedure before we leave the ground. And we’ve revisited our ‘Basic Assumptions’ for when communication does inevitably break down. Not the best finish, but definitely a great route.
We left it at that and headed home. Eager to get the fuck out of the wind and get some sleep. But first we had to pick up Pearl at the Pet Resort. Later they texted to follow up and also mentioned that they’d be happy to re-home her if it ever became necessary. Like low key “I really like your dog, can I have her?” That’s crazy. Also, that’s just how it is with Pearl.
Right Baskerville Crack
5.10a – 40′
with Emma
Really hard. Requires foot jam/smear in corner/notch, but that just makes it possible.
0.5 at the crux bulge, backup with a nut in horizontal, and go. leave lower “crack” open for foot.
Sharp side-pull crimps until high step is over. Small pieces mostly, #2s and #3s for anchor.
Scramble down the back probably goes many ways, but a weird fifth class chimney felt ok.
Western Saga
5.9 – ???’
with Emma
We did 2 pitches, since ledge was shady. Could run one pitch to upper ledge, or possibly top?
Really fun, definitely repeat.
Crux gear around 0.4 – 1, skip the #4, mind the loose chockstone.
#2 off the ledge, back cleaned a 0.75 after placing in roof.
Corner is secure as fuck.
Final roof move is tricky, then solid gear and hands to the next ledge.
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