Somehow we scored a Saturday site at Ryan Campground. We must have logged in right as someone cancelled, and we snapped that campsite up. Still not warm enough to full venture into the shade, and so once again we were chasing sun at Joshua Tree.
After some indecision we settled on the Split Rock area. While our primary objective Bird of Fire was in the shade (and better suited to the following morning), there were plenty of alternates. We nabbed a prime parking spot amidst an insane cluster of crowds, and headed out to the West tiers where we quickly found our objective, Blood and Cuts.
I really wanted to start with the finger jam, but it felt too low to be secure for me. Instead I stepped to the left and the did a bit of a lieback to gain the crack proper again. As a result the pod was free for a cam. No complaints there. Fingers quickly gave way to hands, but they were large-grained and flaring. I kept placing pieces but definitely didn’t have 100% confidence in all of them. Stances were precarious, jams were less than optimal, and the climbing took a good bit of effort. Gear was really deep and hard to clip. All in all it was something of a struggle. Near the top a hollow offered a solid rest, although the feet were awkward and painful. Solid fists led to the top out. A very strenuous route for sure. Emma arrived at the top fully gassed, to the point where her ears were ringing. I’d heard there was a scramble to the south, but we rapped some convenient glue-ins just to the north.
Miramontes has Blood and Cuts as 5.9, but the internet disagrees. We weren’t too convinced either way, but we’d definitely call it the hardest 5.9 we’ve done at Joshua Tree. Except for maybe Invisibility Lessons? Just to be sure we thought we’d head out and repeat it to compare. But when we arrived at Future Games rock a birthday-party-top-rope-mega-session sent us back the car. Luckily I had scoped some ‘sport’ climbs just down the approach road, so we relocated to a pullout down near Park Blvd and set out to the formation on the east side of the road.
We were looking for Du Hast Mich, but we first stumbled across the two 5.6 routes on the west side. After studying the first bolt, Emma asked if she could lead it. She’d balked earlier after reading that the first clip was tricky, but in person her analysis revealed an easy sequence of moves, with an easy down climb if she wanted to back off. So it was on. Emma led the route with no difficulties, and brought me up afterwards.
With that accomplishment finished, we still had just enough time for Du Hast Mich, which was right around the corner through a cave area. The route began immediately, with overhanging gym moves on less than positive broken plates. Another bolt and then a bit of a ledge, where you move to the right to gain the arete. Which goes, but most improbably. These climb was a total blast, with tenuous counter-pressure feet spanning the arete and less than secure hands. Besides for the ledge, it really didn’t let up the whole way. Nothing particularly hard or strenuous, but sustained and balancey. Delicate and precarious feet on a crumbly surface made the whole thing feel improbable. The overhanging start and the counter-pressure lieback moves on the arete made it feel like a gym climb, but the slightly loose and crumbly feet reminded you that you were definitely outside. Smiles and laughter the whole way for both of us.
Camping at Ryan was a real treat, and we rolled in late for a quick and easy set up and a mellow evening. Staying in the center of the park is super convenient.
The next morning we headed back to Split Rock and set out for the Isles in the Sky. A short ways up the trail we diverted to the approach scramble. Which became the approach pitch. The day before some enthusiastic climbers in the parking lot recommended roping up, but we kept an open mind. Maybe 80 to 100 feet of gully led to the ledge, but it was low angle, and looked like the type of feature you could easily wedge yourself into if you started to slip. We switched shoes and donned gloves and slowly made our way to the ledge. The start was definitely the most awkward and difficult section, but once we were in the crack we had no reservations about soloing, even with a backpack and the rope.
We had the ledge to ourselves, and so there was no excuse not to jump right onto Bird of Fire. Upon seeing it close up, it looked quite manageable, although the upper moves were clearly overhanging. But supposedly there were solid hands up there, so it should be fine. We took our time racking up, and then dived into our first Joshua Tree 10a crack.
The start was awkward but doable. Protection on the left (up the crack proper) was less than inspiring so I opted to head right, set a red C3 and a nut before stepping down and traversing into the crack. The final entry was a bit tenuous, but good fingers kept everything together. The main crack was fairly easy going, although not quite the splitter fingers I was expecting. Protection was fine, but flares and features in the crack required a bit of looking around. Felt like maybe 5.8 to us. As the wall steepened (and became splitter fingers) things became much more difficult. As I entered the final section, I was experiencing some pump, and the ledge that was visible from the ground turned out to not be a ledge at all. It was so slopey and awkward that I down climbed to rest on a marginal stance below.
My forearms weren’t going to recover fully, so eventually I had to move on. I worked back up the crack, stabbed in another blue cam and pushed on. A horn offered a positive side-pull, and I managed to get a flaring hand. But my thin foot smears just weren’t enough, my arms finally gave out, and I pitched off for a short fall. After a short rest, I repeated the finger section, slotted a green cam and went for it a second time. This time I spotted a small feature on the outer corner for my right foot. Side pulls on the horn and increasingly solid hand jams took me through the steepest section, and soon I was stepping through the top out. Convenience bolts made for an easy anchor, and Emma was on her way.
She struggled with the initial traverse, but pulled it off. At the top, cleaning my last cam she gave a last effort and came off. It was really close, and she almost got it clean, but pausing to clean took too much. Once at the top, she wasn’t super impressed. Her biggest critique: uneven difficulty. I think we both were expecting a harder overall climb, instead of a relatively easy crack capped with an extremely hard and pumpy finish.
After snacks we climbed the Bee’s Knees next door. Bolts and friction on an arete full of precarious moves led to a slab summit. Not nearly as interesting as Du Hast Mich, but a nice way to cap off the day. We rapped the approach pitch and headed back to the car.
Blood and Cuts
5.9 – 50′
with Emma
Probably hardest 5.9 we’ve done.
Jams are generally smooth, but gear is on large grained crystals.
Plus gear is deep and often flaring. Serious.
Fingers to hands to fists.
Shave Your Bump
5.6 – 50′
with Emma
Follow! Emma led. I got to the top and we laughed about her anchor.
Easy, with non-committing moves to first bolt.
Du Hast Mich
5.9 – 55′
with Emma
Really fun, gym-style sport climb.
Definitely worth doing if nearby.
Bird of Fire
5.10a – 80′
with Emma
Gear up and to the right at the start (stopper and C3).
Maybe down climb next time and do the direct start into the crack.
Crack feels 5.8, flaring and awkward gear.
Blue through green around the crux. Can runout the final moves.
Maybe protect side crack next time to help follower?
Bee’s Knees
5.9 – 60′
with Emma
Kinda precarious moves up the arete. Ok.
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