This was the trip to Red Rock that almost didn’t happen. With so much variability in the forecast and then in planning, I ended up packing without even knowing the final destination. Would it be Mojave sport or long multis in Red Rock? After the weather finally settled, and a long drive across the desert, I arrived at the Red Rock BLM campground and waited for folks to show up. Before long Luke and Jimmy rolled in from their respective adventures. The last two standing climbers of the weeklong trip. Looks like we’re doing party of three!
Luckily Jimmy had a great plan that would accommodate us all. They were both a bit spent from so much climbing, but still wanted a full day. MysterZ was a nice seven-pitch 5.7 that would deliver us right at the base of the classic Armatron (5.9, six pitches). A nice full day, but nothing too hard.
We got ready in the dark for an alpine start. The morning started with a line at the gate and then spectacular views of the canyon lit by the emerging sun. We grabbed our stuff and got on the trail ahead of numerous other parties. The terrain was surprisingly vegetated for the Vegas surrounds and full of cactus, chaparral bush, and even some large trees. We crossed two creeks, went up a gentle slope and before long we were approaching Jackrabbit Buttress.
I won the random number generator, and got the first lead. First Red Rock trip, first climb, first lead! The first pitch was a delightful romp with great jams, a bit of chimneying, and a ridiculously easy roof-pull. I met the party ahead of us in the notch and belayed below them. Which turned out to be a bit of a mistake I quickly found.
*&* Turns out Luke’s 9.4 was fuzzy, or swollen, or stiff enough to be almost impossible to pull through my megajul. Jimmy’s yellow rope was smooth sailing, but Luke’s was a struggle that was harder than the climbing. Add in a waist-level masterpoint, and I was having a really hard time keeping up with my climbers. When they arrived at the belay I was gasping from the effort. Lesson learned! Maybe test unfamiliar ropes? Or maybe just give up on ‘one device to rule them all’ and carry my ATC as well? My strategy for the rest of the day was to make sure I could set my anchor high so that at least I had better ergonomics for the pull.
Jimmy quickly set off on our next pitch. With rope sailing out much faster than we expected. After a brief crack in a corner, most of this pitch was a hike, up a cool cream and pink striped staircase. A brief unroped walk took us to our next belay, and Luke jumped on what was probably the most adventurous pitch of the climb. Following this was a delight. Some nice jams up a right-leaning crack were interspersed with face climbing. Eventually we moved into a gully and around a spindly tree. Luke had effectively soloed this section as the gear was just not there. Definitely a bit runout for this part of the climb.
I was up next, traversing out to a nice brown hand crack with a mini roof-pull. We had agreed that I should skip the prescribed belay and just keep going as far as I could. I worked my way up a wide stemming notch, with minimal gear, but very easy terrain. Since I was worried about drag, I bumped and back-cleaned pieces as I went. I got some comments on my runouts, but had to remind them “Don’t mistake back-cleaning for boldness!”
Jimmy quickly finished the next pitch, we followed, and soon we were walking off the top of the buttress. We’d apparently linked several pitches, doing the traditional seven in just five. Seven pitches in four hours with a party of three? We were starting to feel pretty good about our objective for the day.
I hate to be that person, but I gotta say, I was surprised later to check the grades on the route. Apparently I got two 5.7 pitches, but I’d have to say they felt 5.6 or 5.5 to me. I definitely don’t have enough data points, but maybe it’s true that Red Rock is soft.
We arrived at the base of Armatron giddy at the sight of endless, glossy, cracked patina plates. Luke and I were further buoyed by Jimmy’s enthusiasm. That he was this hyped on a repeat told us that this was going to be a real treat. We stashed gear and ate some more snacks, and soon enough it was our turn to start up. Due to the smaller stances we opted to caterpillar instead of doing double-followers. It slowed the pace just enough to ensure we could keep the ropes well sorted and take a few rests between pitches. This apparently frustrated the party behind us, but they resolved that easily by simul-climbing through once we were established at the second anchor.
Luke took the first lead. I got the next, and the crux of the route. A short section of finger crack that was over far too soon. If you’d told me it was 5.8 I would’ve believed you. Pro was a bit tricky for the final plate section of the pitch. My last stopper popped out once I was above it, but a tiny tricam resolutely stayed put. I joked that I was winning at “Place the tricam” 1:0:0. But then quickly reminded them that we all win when no one plays, especially if we’re trying to make good time.
Jimmy then set off of the absolutely epic pitch three. His hoots of delight were inspired alternating between the amazing climbing, and the amazing nut placements. Just a delightful pitch of rock climbing. We followed with similar enthusiasm. A total smile factory, with incredible views of the Rainbow Wall.
Luke took the fourth pitch (another sea of plates), and then I was off on my mission to link five and six and top us out as quickly as possible. By back-cleaning and skipping placements I was able to keep the rope running smoothly, and after some exciting and fun areté and boulder moves I was atop the final spire. The radio squawked to inform me that I was out of rope. Luckily I was standing at the anchor, with nothing to spare. Jimmy followed quickly, and then Luke. I had to remind them again that “back-cleaning doesn’t equal boldness.” We were thrilled to be done, and relishing the final warm sunlight of the day after the last few chilly belays.
A quick scramble found the summit. We signed the log, took in the views, and then began our descent. Returning to our packs at the base of Armatron was a trivial affair, and done in about 20 or 30 minutes. From there we began the seemingly endless descent through Juniper Canyon.
Despite the length of the descent, it did feel somewhat casual and mellow compared to Josh. While the scrambly descents there are generally shorter, they are often steeper with more downclimbing, and the rocks are so much sharper. The soft gentle sandstone was a treat every time I had to put my hands down. A small detail, but it definitely changed the vibe of the effort.
Headlamps came on as daylight faded and we meandered and down climbed rubble and talus, and then negotiated a bouldery wash. We did the final mile on the trail in the dark, and arrived at the car in just about 12 hours. Not bad for 1500′ feet of party of three. Can’t wait to get back and explore Red Rock more.
MysterZ
5.7 – Seven pitches – 800′
with Luke and Jimmy
Great views, five pitches (with 70)
#3 was useful a few times
Might consider simuling next time?
Armatron
5.9 – Six pitches – 680′
with Luke and Jimmy
Cruiser – bolted belays
Doubles to .75, maybe extra stoppers?
Can link 5 & 6 with a 70
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