I’d been wanting to climb this route for years. On our very first trip to Joshua Tree we hit up Hemmingway and did Dung Fu, and about halfway up I noticed Overseer. The veering improbable corner to the left beckoned to me with an almost irresistible siren call. It looked unlikely, but enticing, and large positive holds with chalk marks assured me that it could go. It was only the thought of my followers that prevented me from changing course and making an attempt. I felt a strange compulsion to follow the holds and discover where they went. But I was reasonable, and considerate to my partners, and finished the climb proper, which was still a great route. But ever since that moment I’ve been thinking about getting back up there and going left.
The “Joshua Tree Mom’s Trip” was the perfect opportunity. Emma’s mom wanted a hike, so we did that. My mom wanted to wander around, and do the Barker Dam loop. And we wanted to squeeze in a quick climb. We were feeling gym-strong, and after doing Pope’s Crack, the 5.9 grade seemed achievable for us as a team. So we headed over to Hemmingway with everyone in tow. It was giving me flashbacks to our first trip in 2017, when we climbed Dung Fu with the whole family audience.
The initial section definitely didn’t have any protection. The loose flake made placing gear out of the question. I think you’d have to be pretty naive to put anything behind it. That thing is barely on there. Going up around the steep corner was as fun as I’d imagined. It looks improbable, but solid hands and feet makes for easy progress upward.The crux was indeed a one-move-wonder. Thin, rattley fingers that were practically ratchets for me. I used this section for quick balance as I stood up and threw a reach for a solid hand. Easy ground to the top.
Emma struggled a lot on the crux on this one. Rope drag was pretty bad. As a result I extended everything. Which meant that at the crux she was getting pulled out and away from the crack. I think no extension on a piece above the crux would be the answer, but would result in even worse drag. I almost wonder about reseting the belay higher and in a direct line above the crux, but the bulging rounded top off would definitely add extra drag. Not sure how to set this one up for the follower. Maybe starting on Dung Fu would help?
The wind up top was heinous so we took some quick pictures and got down as quick as possible. The rest of the trip was mellow family activities, but a really nice trip overall.
Overseer
5.9 – 120′
with Emma
Not sure how to rig top belay for follower…
Maybe up the slab directly? But drag would be worse.
At the very least a high, tight redirect.
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