When we pulled up to the Echo Cove outer wall and saw two climbers racking up for Horny Corner I couldn’t resist. I had to hop out of the car and go chat them up. Soon we were chopping it up with Luis and his partner. They were on a mission for offwidths, and were cruising the park looking for practice. Lots of wide gear and kneepads. We raved about Horny Corner (our new favorite) and compared notes on routes before moving on to our objective.
Emma had her sights set on Swing Low, a slabby 5.7 (or 5.8) in Echo Cove. It seemed like a good choice for her, but as we prepared at the base it was hard not to notice the height of the first bolt. My guess was 20ish feet off the deck. Not great, not terrible. Fairly easy terrain, but definitely a committing move about halfway up. After two attempts to get to a first bolt (once on Swing Low, and then on the nearby RAF) Emma opted to back off. It was a bit of a blow for her. Joshua Tree can be discouraging for a new leader, that’s for sure.
I couldn’t help but commended her choice though. It really felt like the right, sensible decision. When I was learning to lead, I was young, absolutely driven, and determined to get up things. While I wouldn’t consider myself reckless, I often sought safety above, and the prospect of the next bolt frequently compelled me into situations that really tested (and developed) my head game. But as an adult, I think Emma made the right call. Plus she got some great down climbing under duress practice. Definitely an under appreciated skill for a leader.
As we walked back past Horny Corner on our way to Touch and Go we saw Luis and his partner wrapping up their climb. We nabbed photos and traded numbers to follow up. They were headed to Crack 6 next. After the fact he shared with us the video of his recent ascent of The Nose. We also learned that they were in their 60s and 70s. Total crushers. Hope I’m still climbing like that at their age!
We arrived at our next route – Touch and Go – just as a party of four was wrapping up a top rope session. Soon I was starting up the corner, moving through a tricky move down low that was over quickly. Ample gear everywhere. The upper section was solid climbing, but stances felt insecure, so I did run it out just a bit through the most difficult moves. Really fun climb. I guess I agree with the rating, definitely a classic. Emma followed clean, but arrived out of breath from the effort. The descent meandered down chimneys and ledges, to a small canyon to the south. Nothing too sketchy.
And then we were back in the car for a reset and some planning. Since we were staring the west side of Echo right in the face, we figured that today was the day to give Heart and Sole another try. Emma was still intimidated after her struggles on our first attempt, but today we were feeling confident enough to try. The walk over is effortless, but the final move to the belay involve awkward climbing through tree branches and a nolina.
My nerves were at medium alert. The biggest concern is the one delicate move on the way to the first bolt. I put every C3 I had behind the flake, and hoped for the best. I slowly pulled then thin move and carefully clipped. It might only be 5.8 but a fall here would be bad.
Once I clipped the first bolt, all the tension disappeared. Now it was time for pure fun. After a false start and slip where I briefly weighted the rope, I collected myself and tip-toed my way to the roof. I was definitely off route last time, going straight up was way easier. Once at the roof, it was improbable but easy to walk across to the second bolt. Plus a bonus hidden bucket made the final step super secure. More fun slab-walking along the lip of the roof to the third bolt, and then thin, delicate moves up to the flake.
The flake is definitely the secure part of the climb, but it certainly isn’t over yet. Lieback and some jams take you upward, but the holds in the seam always leave you guessing. Fingers, slopers, tips, and hands keep you on your toes, and the feet aren’t always guaranteed. Once at the bolts I created a long tether and walked back out to the top of the flake to build an anchor. I enjoy this position for photos and for watching. I call it the “Friend Anchor”.
Emma proceeded to absolutely smoke the route, with a perfect clean follow. She was completely solid on the steep slab, and then locked into the lieback up the flake. An impressive showing and an incredible turnabout after getting shut down on Swing Low earlier.
We rappelled as the sun was setting and headed out lit by the remaining sun and the glow of two great climbs. We felt really accomplished and also had a ton of fun on these two classics.
Swing Low
5.7 (5.8?) – 60′
with Emma
Emma backs off. First bolt about 20′ requires committing move.
Touch and Go
5.9 – 70′
with Emma
Really great climb. Tricky move down low, awkward section up top.
Scramble down back and to the left (South).
Doubles to 3″, stoppers
Heart and Sole
5.10a – 70′
with Emma
So much fun.
Singles to 3″, all C3s, no stoppers.
Our plan if I blew the first thin move: I slide to the starting block, Emma jumps in pit to take up slack, hopefully the C3s would hold.
Leave a Reply