Another quick trip to Joshua tree, but this time with a last minute change-up: Luke invited us to stay in the park proper at Sheep Pass with an entire crew of climbers. The only downside was having to meet a bunch of new people and share a campsite with strangers. But it was a great opportunity for Emma and Luke to meet, and we’d be right in the park instead of commuting in from Black Rock, so it was an easy decision to cancel our original reservation and join in on the group.
We arrived in the early afternoon and scoped out the Echo area. We were interested in some routes in Echo cove, but a full parking lot and top ropes on almost every route turned us around right quick. But we had a backup plan ready, the outer south facing wall of Echo Cove, right along the dirt road. We were aiming for the 5.9 route Ass of Dog (in honor of our flatulent dog), but once we were at the formation the adjacent Axe of Dog (10a) was much more compelling to us. Both routes share the same finish, but the initial crack of Axe looked so appealing and inviting that we opted to do it instead.
Fun moves took me up the crack, with ample placements for finger to hand size pieces, and soon I was at the undercling stance below the crux. A recessed constriction took a #5 stopper, and I placed the red C3 above it on the face, commenting that it should at least slow me down. Which it did, as I quickly slipped off the delicate crux and pulled the piece out with me. I didn’t bother replacing the cam, and proceeded to work on welding the stopper in place as I slid off a few more times. Ultimately some combination of using the desperate side-cling and invisible feet got me into a tenuous stance that allowed me to stretch and reach the horizontal above.
The slanting crack above was tricky, with thin feet and slightly awkward jams, almost reminiscent of the second pitch of Dappled Mare. A traverse to the rings made for a quick and easy anchor. Emma did well on the follow, but took a few attempts on the crux. Although without the reach that I had, she had to squeeze in one more desperate step before gaining the horizontal. It’s definitely more serious climbing if you don’t have my reach.
Next up we scoped out the nearby Horny Corner. Not much info about this route, but we were intrigued by the geometry of the formation. Looked like lots of interesting moves. And did it deliver. Weird 3D stemming, some offwidth, delicate slab, chimneying, and even some crawling and tunneling. This led to an awkward, vertigo-inducing stance with a bolt above. Once clipped, I was able to slowly navigate outward and upward to transition to the arete above. Sharp edging and awkward moves took me up the arete to the top of the boulder. A really fun sequence if a bit exposed and runout. But ultimately the holds are there, and by moving cautiously and carefully I felt confident the whole time.
Emma followed and made a great effort. The wide and weirdness below was definitely taxing, but the upper face moves ruined her flash. A combination of sharp edges and missing some feet caused her to come off while moving up the steep arete. I may have contributed to the struggle by advertising the arete as the reward for getting up to the ledge. But I was thinking the exciting and exposed finish was a treat, rather than it was an easy finish.
We arrived at camp first and got ourselves situated. After dinner and a cocktail around the fire, headlights arrived in camp. We got ourselves ready to switch gears from chilling out to meeting new people. But we were delightfully surprised that Luke’s partner was our acquaintance Jimmy.
We built the fire back up and proceeded to enjoy another round of cocktails and sit around as old friends (which we all practically were) and talk shit about gumbies and sandbagged routes at Josh. A perfect evening to end the day after some really fun routes.
Axe of Dog
5.10a – 50′
with Emma
#5 stopper below the crux
Super delicate and balancey, sidepull to the right
Horny Corner
5.9 – 60′
with Emma
Fun weirdness
Singles 0.5 – 4, one quickdraw.
New favorite, super fun and 3D geometry weird.
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