More like ‘Open-Can-of-Whup-Ass’. I think we were both expecting this to be easier. This would be the third 5.9 route that Luke and I were to attempt at Tahquitz, and if it was anything like the first two (Whodunnit, Dave’s), it should be cruiser. At least that’s what we thought as we hiked up on a sunny Wednesday morning.
The base was a little confusing, and resulted in us moving our packs once or twice. The tree is probably the best spot to stash packs and set off from. The initial boulder moves (5.8) off the upper ledge looked totally manageable, but the gear placements and proximity to the ledge was less than inspiring. We built an anchor and arranged the belay very strategically, since a ledge-fall was on the table. I kept the belay tight and was ready to dive off the ledge if needed, but of course Luke sailed it no problem. (The only problem being that there were no secure stances or rests, so sustained awkward moves right above a ledge.) At least the main crack section had bomber gear with fairly clean falls.
The main crack gave Luke a bit more trouble than either of us expected. The wide section before the protruding flake proved to be slippery and desperate, and sapped energy quickly. After he built an anchor and put me on, I started up. This pitch also gave me more trouble than expected, and I slipped out of the crack and onto the rope twice while attempting to clean gear. I suspect there were some feet behind or to the right of me, but I think I got tunnel vision and fixated on the main crack. Next time I’d like to try to look around. The anchor was built around a chockstone, with a few extra pieces. There wasn’t much in the way of stances, so I rested below Luke’s perch for the changeover.
I barely caught my breath and had a snack before setting off on my lead. After getting spanked on top rope, I just wanted to reach the next belay without any sort of incident. Luckily the second pitch was fairly straightforward. The “grand corner” was sustained and strenuous, and only barely too wide for comfort. I surmounted the block in the chimney with no air to spare, gasping and panting. After a short break I ventured out right and around the roof on incut holds to the slopey ledge. As promised, a #1 and #2 made up the belay. Although it looked like you could build an alternate anchor with smaller pieces in the crack to the right. Luke made short work of the second pitch, and we both agreed that the first pitch was definitely trickier.
Luke set off on the final utility pitch and I settled in, relaxed and glad to be done with the hard stuff. Of course, classic benchmark routes can be full of surprises. After working up the gully and easy roof, Luke disappeared from sight. I gave and took slack enough times to start to wonder what was going on. I assumed there was a route-finding issue. Turns out there was, but it was that Luke didn’t like what he was finding on the route. Feeling rested and recovered from my last lead, and greedy for more, I casually offered to finish the pitch if needed. After another attempt, Luke took me up and lowered.
I quickly climbed the corner and cleared the roof so I could assess the terrain above. A slippery, featureless flaring squeeze chimney to a featureless smooth slab to the right. I don’t know what I was expecting, but not this. I didn’t regret offering to finish the pitch, but this was definitely much more screwy than I had imagined. But what was I thinking? Luke is a calm, deliberate, and thoughtful climber – recently crushing some scary and hard stuff in the Valley. There’s no way he’s backing off something even remotely reasonable. And I gotta admit, this didn’t feel reasonable.
But of course, it was only 5.6, and the chimney was a secure as could be. The slab looked completely slippery, but my feet stuck perfectly. Everything was there (albeit a bit awkward), and soon enough I was placing a large wire in the gully on the other side of the slab. With a wave of relief I scampered upward. A small chimney lead to the bolts, but instead of building an anchor I figured I’d head to the top. A fourth class hike with the remaining rope brought me to a large boulder to brace against for a quick and easy anchor. Luke followed, and we began sorting gear. A whomping for sure. What a perfect day for a good old-fashioned spanking.
A guide who was finishing Angel’s Fright with his client quipped that some folks find that the 5.6 pitch is the hardest pitch on the climb. Lol. We had to agree. It certainly was the most unexpected pitch, but we both agreed that the first one was the hardest, and warrants a return visit. A quick friction descent to lunch at the packs, and then a non-eventful if endless descent back to the car. Another awesome day at Tahquitz.
Open Book
5.9 – Three pitches – 490′
with Luke
1st pitch: hard stuff before the flake, might have hidden feet though. Heads up with the bouldery start, careful tight belay and be ready to dive to take in slack.
1st anchor: wants big pieces, but they’re needed for the second pitch. Use the chockstone and supplement with midsized pieces.
2nd pitch: very straightforward but wide and strenuous. A single #4 would do it, but two is really nice.
2nd anchor: #1 & #2, might get a tipped out .75 in too, but those two will do it.
3rd pitch: spicy unprotected traverse. It is what it is. Two bolt anchor just above, or stretch the rope to the top.
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