I’m grabbing at the weird looking dike when I suddenly remember it. Then I find the incut slot, and I remember switching to layback. There’s a jam, but my hand doesn’t quite fit, but I remember the sloper on the left as soon as my fingers touch it. It’s disorienting. As an “intuitive” climber I rarely remember anything. Once I reach the belay, the last pitch is pretty much erased from my brain. Ask me how I did the moves and I can’t tell you. I have no idea what happened or what I did. I just climbed it. I am the worst at beta, so don’t bother asking.
But this route is jogging my memory with every move. It’s been eight years, but every hold, every jam, every feature flashes into my memory with a wave of recollection. That weird foot-knob, the vertical pinch… I can’t anticipate anything, but as soon as I see or feel it, my memory activates. For a route to be this memorable to me, I know this route must be something special.
Today we are getting an early start. Or earlier at least. But not enough to get ahead of everyone else. There’s a party of three just ahead of us when we arrive at the base. Luckily they’re tying in short, so should be pretty quick. But we’ll still enjoy the chance to rest. It’s the end of our trip, and we’re feeling it.
They finally clear the first belay, and we step off. The crux passes quickly, with good double gear (stopper plus a .3) and straightforward moves. Then it doesn’t stop. Then there’s more. And even more. Some of these moves feel harder than the crux. Sometimes it’s slippery, sometimes it’s a strenuous layback. Stances are good, gear is great, but it just doesn’t ease up. Finally I mantel onto a slopey notch and exhaustion sets in. We’ve really done it this time, blasting up a solid classic with sustained 5.8 that doesn’t let up, and we started with almost empty tanks. The pitch is physically demanding with its endless sustained moves, but spectacularly technical and varied. I push past all reasonable stances and settle for a semi-hanging belay at about 180 feet. I’m determined to do this in two pitches.
Nothing about this climb is scary. The moves are excellent and committing, but secure and predictable. Gear is everywhere you look, and tends to be bomber. Falls are almost entirely clean, and nothing on it is sketchy. And yet nothing is a gimme.
Emma comes off a few times on the follow (including diving off to avoid the weirdly semi-aggressive bees). I can tell she’s tired, because I’m definitely tired. Emma rests at the good stance before pushing on and joins me at the awkward belay. We quickly swap gear and I set out to end our suffering. The second pitch eases off a bit, making for a more enjoyable time, but still has lots of technical climbing, and then the dramatic roof pull at the end. I remember pulling it so elegantly the first time. Today is a slop fest.
I suspect there’s a second 5.9 bulge somewhere in this pitch, but I couldn’t tell you where. Honestly, the continuous nature of the climb makes it impossible for me to differentiate any sort of cruxes. Classically the crux is the move near the ground, but I really experience this route as an undulating wave of serious but doable moves. Maybe the slippery 5.8 layback was the crux for me, maybe the insecure step above it. I can’t tell, it feels like one continuous sequence without distinct boundaries.
With about 20 or 30 feet of rope left I top out. I skip the tree and opt for a gear anchor (.75, 2, 3) so I can watch. Emma pulls the second pitch smooth and clean, with a solid roof pull. An awesome climb, and a great accomplishment, but we’re too hot and exhausted to even say anything. We quickly break the anchor and head for the trail, desperate for shade. Near the creek we find a spot to ditch the gear and eat and drink. Waiting behind the first party took us later into the day than we expected, but it still felt too early for lunch as we were roping up. Our belay was awkward enough to skip snacking, and now we’re paying the price. This is a lesson for us. We’re absolutely drained and empty, and water and food are the only thing slowly reviving us.
At least the descent is chill thanks to Petch’s awesome stairs. Best descent trail ever. We quickly bounce back from total exhaustion as we’re overwhelmed by the incredible alpine garden we’re wandering through. What an amazing end to an awesome trip.
We attempted The Line, and we also found our line.
What and awesome route. Definitely on our repeat list, but we’re taking food a little more seriously from now on. Rope drag really isn’t an issue with proper extension, and I think that the small slopey notch would work for the belay next time and still allow two pitches. I think doubling gear at the first crux is wise, because it’s definitely ground fall territory, but after that it’s readily available.
1 set stoppers, doubles to 3, microcams.
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