Cancelling a trip to Joshua Tree happen way too often to us. This was the second time (not the first) in which our months-in-advance campground reservation coincided with a 60mph+ windstorm. Not even . This was a particularly hard break, since our next reservation was one we were sharing with our gym-friends. We were looking forward to hanging with them, but we also had some real climbing to get to! When the weekend before our social trip developed a perfect weather forecast, we knew we had to improvise. We booked a site at a private campground (the one with the lake) and headed out on a spontaneous trip with intent to work on our todo list.
The approach to Future Games went smooth but I got some bad beta from a GPS track online, and ended up veering right around split rock. No worries though, just some extra scrambling up, and scrambling down. (Noted for next time, go left around split rock.) I was clearly confused when planning our day. Instead of being in the shade, the wall was definitely in the sun. But at least it wasn’t too hot. Hopefully it wouldn’t be too greasy.
Greasy in something to consider with Invisibility Lessons though. The beginning felt thin and slick. I backed off a few times before sacrificing a pocket to a good purple cam. That gave me the confidence to get onto the climb proper. The thin hands towards the top gave me plenty of trouble, and getting a jam to stick felt almost impossible. I slipped out three or four times before finally skittering through the section. Got to the top fairly gassed. Felt like the hardest and sloppiest 5.9 I’d climbed at J-Tree, but still got to keep my on sight streak.
Emma hung a few times, but made solid progress, and arrived at the belay feeling positive and accomplished. I had to agree, given my assessment of the difficulty. The top out was something else entirely. It was very much familiar Joshua Tree terrain, but something about it felt really unique. Normally you get a summit, but this wall protrudes from a slope, so you top out at ground level. The views towards Belle and White Tank are flat and sparse, with yucca and juniper instead of Joshua Trees. The view to the north is rubble and more yucca, with glimpses of the outskirts of Twentynine Palms in the distance.
The climb was tiring but luckily it was short, so we descended the leisurely trail back to the base and set up for Continuum. What a different experience. A series of sinker jams and big stances led to the awkward sloping crack. I found it to be fun and somewhat cruiser. Emma found it near impossible and hated it. Some combination of hand size/height/tolerance of awkward made this climb night and day for us. Emma maintains that it’s offwidth, which technically I disagree with, but maybe, if I think of the flaring outer walls as an obstruction to using the inner part of the crack… maybe I can see how it shares some characteristics with an offwidth? Either way, I found it awkward but secure, and she found it incredibly difficult. Enough that she basically swung out and finished on the upper section of Games Without Frontiers in an attempt to escape the slanted insanity.
After enjoying the summit plateau a bit more, we strolled back to the base to pack up and head out. The cactuses were blooming and the scenery was spectacular. Down the hill to grab dinner and then check out our last-minute alternate campsite. It was a solar storm so the auroras were expected, but we had other plans. Getting some sleep and getting some more climbing tomorrow.
Invisibility Lessons
5.9 – 80′
with Emma
After first cam (.5) it’s all good protection-wise.
Thin hands were the crux for me
Definitely want to repeat this one! Really good.
Continuum
5.8+ – 100′
with Emma
Nightmare for Emma, cruiser for me.
Felt true to grade, just awkward. Embrace the awkward.
Leave a Reply