This was an incredible day. After feeling like Fingertrip was a snooze, Luke and I were looking for something a bit more serious. And this route delivered, and then some. A great amount of challenges, none of them too difficult, incredible flow and pacing, and so many memorable sections.
And not just the route, we also had an effortless and easy day. All changeovers went quickly and smoothly, no difficult route finding, and ledges and anchors were ample and simple. Towards the end my feet started to hurt a bit from all the jamming in a soft shoe, but aside from that it was pure joy.
All told, I think we both found the third pitch to be a favorite. It zigzagged up opposite corners of the main gully, passing bushes and linking sections of hand crack. The jams, positioning and flow were just exquisite, delightful fingers and hands up the chute with steep pulls along the way.
My favorite section was definitely the chimney exit. I was so hoping to get the chimney pitch and it worked out perfectly. The chimney was easy enough, but the dramatic exit was definitely memorable. Bomber jams on the left made it totally solid, even though it felt so insecure. Something about it really reminded me of the Funky Dung crux.
We descended the North Gully, which was really scenic and alpine. Circling back to our packs took a while, and really tested my endurance. It’s a long route, and a long day for sure.
I’m eager to repeat, it was just that much fun.
Next time: approach from north gully, leave packs on the descent trail there. pro notes on topo. double runners on final pitch. doubles to #3, 1x #4. Save #4 for offwidths, not chimney.
Whodunit
5.9 – 800′ – Seven pitches
with Luke
We did the Gaines pitchout, and linked 7 & 8.
P1: Head up to overlaps, thin slab crux, left to bolt anchor (or simul to big ledge).
P2: Awkward step over to the beginning of the corner, climb corner to big ledge.
P3: Continue corner, then move right to adjacent corner. Ledge below chimney.
P4: Chimney, offwidth, corner, pedestal ledge.
P5: Right and then up corner to ‘loose’ blocks, up crack and blocks to slanted pocket below OW.
P6: Offwidth (or left arete) to more of the same. Belay below final roof.
P7: Roof pull, cruiser, boulder move, walk to summit.
Car to car: 7:15 – 6:45 (11:30)
